Monday, September 01, 2025

Dolomites (Alps) - A road trip from Belgium to Italy

Day 0  Ghent, Belgium → Ulm, Germany

I didn’t start from Ghent until midday. No plan, just drive until I got tired. 

Back in my motorcycle days, I always took the Liège route to Frankfurt because it was scenic. I did the same now with my Toyota C-HR. This time I diverted through Saarbrücken, Karlsruhe, Stuttgart - still a beautiful ride. 

On the road I listened to podcasts. One was about training your body so hard that the mind learns to think differently. Another about memory - how memories shape us, and how bad ones can lose their power over time. And one from Inner Engineering - about crushing ego, giving without expectation, and not centering everything on yourself. At 9:15 PM, just outside Ulm, I pulled into a motel. 

Outside I met Oliver, a homeless man. He was younger than me, but life had hit him harder. We shared a cigarette. Before he left he said: “Take care bro, we all have to take care of ourselves.” Simple words, but they stayed with me. I shook his hand before he walked away. 

Day 1 – Ulm, Germany → Val Gardena, Italy

Next morning, I headed south. 

First time ever driving through Austria. The moment I came out of the tunnel from Germany, the Alps appeared - tall, calm, beautiful. 
 
Stopped at the Fern Pass to take photos of the blue lake below. Then a quick stop at Spar supermarket near Innsbruck for pizza and coffee. Even simple food felt better with mountains all around. 

Crossed into Italy and entered Val Gardena. My hotel was right under the Sella massif and Sassolungo - giants of stone rising above me. In the evening I drove up to Passo Gardena. The views were breathtaking in golden light. That was the first time I felt, yes, I’ve really arrived.







Day 2 – Comici Loop Hike 

Breakfast at the hotel, then I set out. I’m not as fit as I used to be, but I trusted myself. 

Started from Plan de Gralba and climbed toward Passo Sella, then followed the trail under the walls of Sassolungo to Rifugio Emilio Comici. Along the way, people were bouldering on the rocks, mountain bikers flew past. 

At Comici, I hiked a little higher - small open chapel, paragliding launch, big views. Then descended into Vallongia meadows, quieter and more peaceful. Stopped at a small hut for apple strudel and tea. The woman there explained the flowers around her hut. Made me think of home - in Coimbatore, my mother has always loved her garden and her flowers. 

Back at the hotel in the evening, I sat with a drink, house music playing, sunset over the Dolomites. Alone, but not lonely. Less people to deal with. Solitude felt like freedom.









Day 3 – Lago di Braies 

I started late, around 11 AM. The plan was to finally hike Seceda, but when I reached Ortisei there was no parking anywhere. 

Frustrated, I decided to change direction completely and drive to Lago di Braies. It was a long two-hour drive, but beautiful - across Passo Gardena and Corvara, winding roads with mountain walls on both sides. 

The lake itself was crowded, full of tourists. Still, the hike around the lake was beautiful. On one stretch, people had built stone formations, little towers balancing on each other. 

My mother used to tell me that if you build one, God will bless you with a home of your own. I made one for myself. After finishing the loop, I sat by the boathouse, watching the turquoise water, letting the noise of the crowd fade behind me. In the evening I drove back to Val Gardena, repeated my ritual: a drink outside the hotel, mountains in view.









Day 4 – Seceda Hike 

Today I started earlier, around 9:30 AM, and finally found parking in Ortisei. Took the cable car all the way up to Seceda. 

Walked the famous ridgeline, the “dragon teeth” of the Dolomites. Then descended to Pieralongia. A small boy was playing music near the spires - I paused for a moment, listening, and smiled. 

Further down to Rifugio Firenze (Regensburger Hütte), where I had my first proper lunch in a couple of days: South Tyrolean dumpling soup. Warm, simple, satisfying. 

After lunch, the uphill climb back toward Seceda was tougher. My body was heavy, but I managed. Back at the top station, I took the cable car down to Ortisei. 

In the cabin, a Korean family asked me where I was from. I said India, and when I mentioned I had worked in Seoul for a few months back in 2008, they were so happy. They told me to come back to Korea again one day. I will.












Day 5 – Motorcycle Loop & Drive to Kempten, Germany

Checked out of the hotel and decided to rent a KL Brera 300cc motorcycle. I used to ride a Kawasaki Versys 650, so getting back on two wheels brought back nostalgia. 

Started from Ortisei → Val di Funes, stopping at St. Magdalena for the postcard Dolomites view. Then climbed to Wurzjoch (Passo delle Erbe), where I took a small hike and ate some bread I carried for lunch. 

From there down to Corvara, where I bought fridge magnets for my mother - I always do this when I travel. Then over Passo Gardena and Passo Sella, soaking in the mountain views. 

The riding itself felt good, though I realized my cornering - sliding and bending into fast turns - wasn’t sharp anymore. Maybe the years off the bike showed. But apart from that, I felt okay. 

Returned the bike in Ortisei, then at 5:30 PM I started the car journey home. Drove until Kempten, Germany, arriving around 9 PM. The motel was a mess - they had double-booked my room, and someone else was already inside. After calls and haggling with customer care, they gave me another room. But I was disappointed by the experience.




















Day 6 – Back Home to Ghent, Belgium 

Left Kempten, Germany around 10 AM. Followed the same route back through Liège. 

Stopped for coffee breaks, listened to podcasts - this time about addiction and creative writing. It was a long day behind the wheel, but my head was full. Full of mountains, ridges, lakes, motorcycle passes, and the people I had crossed paths with - Oliver outside a motel, the lady at the hut with her flowers, the Korean family in the cable car. 

By evening I reached Ghent. Back home. Tired but content, carrying memories that will stay.

Thought of Day: Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul. - Anonymous biker saying

2 comments:

rameshbabublogger said...

Simple and clean writeup. Beautiful pictures. Expecting more from you DSP

Sathyaprakash Dhanabal said...

Thanks na. Sure, I would like to write more.